Description

This is the 4th photo in the collection that is released as a 1/1 unique edition. Size: 5600x7000 px ⠀ Always wanted to learn how to surf! For me it was an exotic sport, something far away and unattainable. After all, it's something brave guys do somewhere far away where there's an ocean. In 2018, I was so far away from it. ⠀ But the next year, being in Bali, I decided to try it after all, even though it was scary, because seeing the huge waves crashing my surfboards, then what can those waves do to me?) I thought. ⠀ After taking a few lessons from a Balinese instructor on smaller waves, I did get up on my board, though not without injury. Once I fell off the board and hurt my back. I got spun into a wave called a trumpet. It felt as if I had been stuck in a huge washing machine and was spinning the drum. ⠀ Ha ha, yes, it's still a dangerous sport. But those emotions when you finally take your wave and ride the board like a dolphin, only on the surface, are still worth it!